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STLtoday.com: Taste in Central West End transforms simple into sophisticated

April 29, 2011

This article appeared on www.stltoday.com on Thursday, April 28, 2011 READ IT HERE
Story by Joe Bonwich

In its original incarnation on Sidney Street, Taste — then known as Taste by Niche — was probably best classified as an upscale bar with interesting food, as opposed to a dinner destination. Taste v2.0 opened in March in the Central West End space that was formerly Moxy, dropping the “by Niche,” even though it’s next door to Brasserie by Niche. The menu notes that dishes are “designed to be shared,” but most also can be used to construct individual appetizer-entree-dessert meals.

The new space is cozy but, at about three times the capacity, not so near-claustrophobic as the old place. The design morphs Moxy’s polished hipness into a more subdued, much warmer state of cool. It feels, dare we say, cosmopolitan, although that word’s connotation of cartoonish “Sex and the City” sipping sophistication would be an unwarranted slight of head bartender Ted Kilgore and his team.


From Alivemag.com - Hotspot: Taste

April 01, 2011

Story by Cristy Miller
This article appeared on alivemag.com on Originally posted Mar 31, 2011 READ IT HERE

The new Taste in the CWE is far from a replica of Taste by Niche; it’s an exciting interpretation. Owner and CIA-trained chef Adam Altnether, who began at Niche as a line cook in 2007, took over Gerard Craft’s beloved taste bar, partnering with award-winning mixologist Ted Kilgore to reopen in the former Moxy space. He dropped the “by Niche” name, created menu items that are more entrée-sized and made a few touches to the cocktail list.

The Space
The only remnant of the space’s previous tenant, Moxy, is the small, open kitchen and bar; beyond that, however, the interior feels fresh. Warm brass, gold colors, wooden floors and very low lighting create a well-thought-out steampunk look and a more elegant European ambience than its former Benton Park digs. The new space also has three times the seating capacity and a second-floor lounge with long communal tables and leather couches for private parties.

Sip & Sup
Altnether says he wanted Taste to feel like a rustic European tavern—both in appearance and with the menu. So, he beefed up portion size and added a few new dishes like a rich pork burger with homemade chips and a pub-esque fish and chips that swaps in trout. The menu is heavy on pork, but delightfully so, with bacon deviled eggs, a candied bacon appetizer with a maple glaze and a braised pork belly entrée with chilled beans. Those
undaunted by what makes up pork fries will enjoy Altnether’s version, served with aioli and mint sauce. And, thankfully, he also kept the famous pigwiches dessert—the unique bacon crème and light chocolate wafer sandwich has always been a favorite of mine.


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April 2011